Saturday, September 28, 2013

The Nice American

         Americans are really nice.

         I am trying to focus on the good things about living where I do, and this is one of the big ones. When I went to the pharmacy yesterday, I got a big smile and a seemingly sincere, "How are you doing today?" from the young woman behind the counter. She laughed with the pharmacist when the noise of the register tape made her jump, and she told the aged, hunched woman behind me how nice she looked today. Far from being an isolated incident, I can almost count on a pleasant exchange with someone every time I leave the house. The grocery store cashier complements my choice of snack bar, the man at Toyota runs out to see if I need help with my plates, the school secretary answers my questions cheerfully. This kind of friendliness is not a worldwide phenomenon. I notice and appreciate it now in a way I did not before.

        That said, let's move on to the day's main topic. As I said, I am working on appreciating my location. This does not come naturally since, as it turns out, Baltimore is neither Geneva nor Cincinnati, which are at least two of the places ahead of it on the list of Places I Want to Be Right Now. In this spirit of aspirational appreciation, I decided that it was Time for an Adventure. So after dropping Luc and Jo at Co-op last Monday, I set off to see what Central Maryland had to offer.
        Being a mildly goal-oriented kind of person, I had previously googled "vintage furniture Westminster." Our Realtor, who has been the good fairy behind both our home and all our home improvements, had further suggested that I should find some antiques to furnish the living room. So I obediently set out for the Westminster Antique Mall. The Co-op is about an hour from our house, in what, after living in Baltimore County, seemed like the barren countryside of Carroll County. I drove through rolling green hills, past red barns and white farmhouses, under a clear sky of the blue that only autumn brings. When I reached the Antique Mall, it was closed.

Closed, but with a promising look.

       Happily, this was because it was only 9 in the morning. I decided to push the envelope of adventure by visiting the nearest grocery store while I waited for the mall to open at 10. Unhappily for adventure, but happily for efficiency, the nearest grocery was a chain that has become familiar to me in recent weeks.


I highly recommend Giant. Good private-label, veggie sticks, Jones Soda . . . .
            After a successful (measured by the fact that all the groceries fit into the bags I brought) shopping expedition, I took care of answering some phone calls, setting up an orthodontist appointment, and scheduling time for Drew to drive with the instructor.  
   

The mobile office.
       I returned to the Antique Mall, finding it open this time. I am not a seasoned antique shopper. We've always been more the kind of people who wait around for someone to give us furniture. Since we don't really know anyone in Baltimore -- with or without furniture -- that didn't seem like a viable option. Plus, at 42, it's probably time for us to stop behaving like college students and buy our own stuff.  Anyway, I could get into antique shopping. Being at the Antique Mall was kind of like being at my Grandma Emy's, Aunt Nancy's, and Aunt Betty's houses -- all at the same time. I had no idea about the quality or value of anything I was looking at, but I was charmed nonetheless.


What do you think about this for the living room?

How about these? The tables, not the glassware, of course.

        I didn't end up buying anything, being unable to make decisions about anything but groceries or textbooks without other family members weighing in. Plus, now I have a great excuse to go back next week. I traveled back to the church where the Co-op meets through the center of Westminster, which is as homey a country town as I could ask for. I ate a bagel at a place called Sam's, which was right on the main street. The lady tending the counter asked me to help her thread her needle (which I did), and shared her parking woes. A man came in and asked her to sponsor a softball team. She agreed and went back to her hand-towel sewing. She warned me not to put any salt on my sandwich, because the chicken salad was already salty. I felt like a regular.

Sam's

        I made it back to Co-op in time to be the English helper and the art helper (guess which one I'm better at). Maryland is not Geneva. It's not Cincinnati either. And my adventure was hardly earth-shattering -- I didn't even buy a teaspoon. But for that morning, I was content to be where I was.




Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Driving in Baltimore




       This is the view out my window as I drive on I-695 around Baltimore. 

Don't worry. Johanna took this picture. All my hands were on the wheel.




       This is my speedometer.

I'm not telling who took this picture.
       Comparing these two pictures, you wouldn't think that cars would be whizzing past me on every side, would you? 

        Loyal readers will recall that my favorite thing about Geneva was the public transportation. Our one car mostly sat in the garage. If the kids wanted to go somewhere, they took the tram. My groceries arrived at my door.
Life has changed a bit since we returned to the US. This is my new best friend and constant companion.

At least it's a pretty color, right?

And this is what I spend a lot of time looking at.

Yes. They all have their brake lights on. Always.

I am sure that there are worse roads in the world that I-695. It’s just that I have never driven on one. The speed limit may be 55 mph, but everyone is either going 75 mph or at a complete standstill. And we switch from one speed to the other without warning. Combined with the every-half-mile merges, five other interstates shooting off and joining up, and ubiquitous construction, it is no surprise that there’s been an accident on this interstate almost every time I’ve driven on it. Which is far more frequently than I could ever ask or imagine. The accidents don’t do much to regularize the traffic flow, although they do provide ample opportunity for spontaneous prayer. Which is better than spontaneous cursing.
Our neighbor, who is a Baltimore native, told us that when he took driver’s ed, the instructor told the class to always drive 8 miles over the speed limit. Apparently to avoid being run over from behind. We’re not in Geneva anymore, Toto. And not in the Midwest, either. Gone are the friendly farmers in pickup trucks who wave other cars on in front of them and regard the speed limit as an upper, rather than a lower limit. 
My (least) favorite road sign sends me into panic every time I see it. Tell me, how am I supposed to drive in a mature and responsible fashion with this kind of instruction?

In Indiana, they'd tell you to get ready to start thinking about merging pretty soon. Right after you finish your donut. Here, this is the first warning they give.


If the other drivers are any indication, the answer is, I’m not.
 











Tuesday, September 10, 2013

The Cathedral


We have been visitors in eight different churches over the past nine weeks. This is surely a record of some kind, and a streak that I do not hope to extend. The experience has been, however, educational.
It’s actually not quite fair to say that we have visited all eight churches, because we started at Crossroads, our own joyful, multicultural, multilingual congregation in Ferney-Voltaire, France. At Crossroads, the music is unpredictable and depends on who is leading. One Sunday it could be Dolly from Nashville with gospel hymns, another it’s the youth pastor’s tribute to Edwin Hawkins, then it’s Mosh-Pit Terry and the band. The Crossroads congregation, composed of expats, is a flexible and sporting bunch who celebrate in whatever way they’re led. My thought when we first visited, two years ago upon our arrival in Geneva, was: “These people really love Jesus.” And it makes them really happy.
Mosh-Pit Terry’s louder twin was leading music at Hunt Valley Church, which we visited on our house-hunting trip to Baltimore. The worship hour was like being at a deafening concert and I didn’t know a single song, all of which made me grouchy and judgmental. Nevertheless, the congregation was into it -- even the white-haired members. I did chuckle, slightly, when a woman tripped up to the podium to announce an upcoming silent retreat. But then, not only was the sermon Biblical and interesting, but the pastor quoted Flannary O’Conner. I started to unbend. Some other members of the family, who shall remain nameless, appreciated the fact the the service lasted EXACTLY one hour. I later noticed the digital clock on the back wall. It’s matched by one in the lobby that lets lingerers know how many seconds they have to find a seat before the service begins. 
The next Sunday felt like Homecoming Weekend for the Aliens. After having been members of North Cincinnati Community Church in Mason, Oh., for seven years, we knew people from the greeter at the door, to the minister, to the family sitting in front of us. Some of our closest friends were there, and it took us at least an hour to extricate ourselves after the service. Though the music has gotten a bit peppier since we left, the service was familiar. It felt safe and comfortable to listen to a sermon from a pastor whom we knew -- from years of experience -- that we could trust to be seeking what God had to say to his congregation. 
The fourth week found us in Grand Rapids. Eric’s dad is the Michael Jordan of ministers -- he  just can’t seem to stay out of the pulpit. He has officially retired from his second denomination, but still seems to be preaching every Sunday. We went with him to the small congregation that he was leading. The organ music, the traditional hymns, the well-thought-out, three-point sermon all prompted Drew to say, “This is the kind of service I’ve been waiting for.”
Orange United Methodist welcomed us the next Sunday. It’s a tiny church that shares a pastor with another congregation -- and the pastor isn’t seminary-trained or full-time himself. I think most of the people there moseyed over from the houses nearby. We immediately doubled the size of the group when we walked through the whitewashed doors and sat in the age-worn wooden pews. Pastor Dean greeted everyone by name and told us that he was going to preach the Bible, “and I’m sorry if your feelings get hurt.” I can’t imagine anyone having  feelings hurt by this jolly, country Santa Claus of a man, but I always appreciate his candor. The truth that those tiny country churches embody is that in God’s family, everyone is important, everyone is noticed, and if they’re not there, everyone is missed.
I like Trinity PCA in Northern Kentucky because: 1) They’ve taken over and are refurbishing an abandoned church building, which is recycling at its best, as far as I am concerned; 2) I taught English years ago to the pastor’s kids -- and his daughter-in-law; and 3) Lots of people whom I have met through the years in various places have drifted there. I also (and I am kind of alone in my family in this) get a real kick out of liturgy. Don’t tell Lucas, or it will further confirm his opinion that I am just plain boring. Also, the Westminster Catechism makes me cry, which I realize is not so much boring as really odd. Trinity was extremely convenient, as Lucas, Johanna, and I were headed to the airport afterwards to pick Drew up. He was returning from India, where his church experience rivaled mine, to be sure. India seems to specialize in the two-hour church service, as a starting point. The translation of the sermon did add some extra time. Eric was back in Geneva that Sunday, at Crossroads, the lucky dog.
I don’t know why, but North Baltimore seems to be a hotbed of Presbyterianism. This is good, because it provides a variety of churches with which we feel doctrinally aligned. This is bad, because it makes us picky. We visited Timonium Presbyterian Church the first week after we moved into our new house. We visited Hunt Valley again the second week, and last week we ended up at Aisquith PCA. The pastor at Aisquith told us we had come to the wrong service (the 9:30 one), because that was the service where all the old people used to come. When they were still alive. He really did say that, though not in exactly those words.
When we visited Hunt Valley for the second time, Johanna told us it reminded her of the churches she had visited earlier in the summer in Uganda. Only quieter. And no one was dancing in the aisles at Hunt Valley. The pastor talked about how the church is like an ancient Cathedral that has been added onto through the years. The foundation might be from the 500s, there might be Gothic buttresses and Romanesque columns and a modern glass steeple. It’s a good illustration of our summer, visiting different churches that sing, preach, and pray in a variety of ways (and languages), but are all part of the House of God.

Monday, September 2, 2013

Queen of the Rednecks

      A word of advice for those who want to see the best of America: Avoid Great Wolf Lodge. Those who know me well will not be surprised to hear that I am not really a resort/amusement park/arcade kind of person. (You may be surprised to learn that I do love a good water slide.) Nevertheless, despite some really good water slides, Great Wolf Lodge does not put forward our country's best face.
      The Aliens ended up spending a few days at Great Wolf Lodge when we first returned to the US this summer. The other hotels in the Mason area were, inexplicably, booked, and we needed a home base from which to drive our children to see their various friends. So we checked into the lodge. The whole hotel is set up to provide an exhaustingly entertaining experience. Kids run up and down the halls on treasure hunts with magic wands that set off chimes, bells, and voices. Hysterically cheerful desk clerks check in guests. The arcade bings and beeps like a junior version of Las Vegas, the snack bars and restaurants hawk enormous portions of sugar and fat. It's the culture of R&R at its most frenetic. The clientele seems to be mostly made up of people who should definitely not appear in public in their bathing suits, but who have decided to buy string bikinis several sizes too small. They have attempted to make up for the clothing deficiency by covering up with tattoos.
       I spent the first few days at Great Wolf Lodge feeling fit, smug, and a little shell-shocked. Then came day number 3. I returned, sticky and hot, from a humid, two-hour bike ride with my fitter and better-bike-equipped friend, but decided to wait until after lunch to shower. Drew and I walked across the street to Chipotle, the rest of the family being occupied elsewhere. We returned from our lunch, hotter and stickier, and found that our little wolf bracelets didn't work to open the door to our room. So we trotted down to the desk, where we met Eric, who had come back from his lunch to discover the same thing. We explained our problem to the friendly desk clerk, who told us,
       "Oh, that's because checkout is at 11."
       But we weren't checking out until the following day.
       "I have you checking out today."
       But we booked the room for four nights.
       "That's right -- four nights from Sunday to Wednesday." Smile.
        But we arrived on Monday.
       "But you were booked from Sunday to Wednesday." More smiles. This clerk was cheery, but she wasn't a pushover. And seemingly, she had the paperwork (the electronic version at least) to prove it. Also, while we were taken aback at being summarily evicted from our room, we weren't entirely sure that we hadn't made a booking mistake. We were buying a house, moving from one country to another, sending a child on a mission trip to India, trying to enroll in a public school without yet being residents of the district, planning a year of homeschooling, and keeping up a fairly intense social life. Sometimes when you have a lot of balls in the air, one drops.
        Seeing that our stuff was still in the room, the clerk did relent enough to allow us access for 30 minutes. No more. What did she think we were going to do, steal the soap? If she did, she was right. I used part of my 30 minutes after being asked to leave Great Wolf Lodge to take a much-needed shower. Then we packed up as quickly as we could and hauled ourselves ignominiously to the only home we had left -- our rented van.
       The experience left me with one question: If Great Wolf Lodge is the bastion of the American Redneck, and I just got myself kicked out of Great Wolf Lodge, what does that make me?

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Goodbye


       In my romantic visions of my last week in Geneva, I wandered the city, camera in hand, saying a leisurely farewell to favorite places and people. Somehow, however, there seemed to be too many orthodontist appointments to keep, too many emails about house and car insurance to answer, and too many hotel reservations to make. Also, I don’t really carry a camera. And also, Geneva was uncharacteristically warm -- no, hot -- which was not conducive to romantic wandering of any kind, but rather to sitting, sipping iced lemonade (which I didn’t do, either). I did manage to remember to take a few quick snaps with my cell phone. Favorite people might not want their image splashed all over cyberspace (and how would you feel if you didn’t make the list?). So here is an affectionate goodbye to some of my favorite Geneva places.



1. Chez Ma Cousine, otherwise known to the Aliens as “the chicken place.” It’s the best rotisserie chicken in the city, possibly in the world (and I don’t even like chicken, usually), served with a very un-Swiss sized pile of potato wedges and salad. All this comes at a price that compares to McDonald's (although that’s McDonald's in Geneva, not America or even France). Once we overcame price paralysis and actually started eating out occasionally, this was our usual hangout.


2. Movenpick, otherwise known to the Aliens as “that ice cream stand by the tram stop.” Geneva has lots of good ice cream (it’s all those Swiss cows), but for a combination of flavor, convenience, and view (of the Jet d’Eau), this Movenpick stand is hard to beat. 



3. The Ecole Professionelle de Coiffure, home of Professor of Hair Philippe, who rules the world of coiffure with an iron fist (and always finds one more wisp to snip when students think they have finished). The beauty school is a true bargain -- something rare in this city of Rolex and furs. One does have to be prepared to invest a whole morning, but where else is it possible to have a beautician from Portugal who introduces the client to her classmate from Dubai?




4. The Rhone. In this shot, taken as a hasty afterthought while we sped across Post Butin on our way to the airport and out of Geneva, one can clearly see the beauty of the river and the pleasant footpaths that meander along its banks. Johanna recently asked family members to describe their ideal Saturday, and both Eric’s and mine included a walk along the Rhone. Mine also included number 2 and 5 (below).




5. The Onex Bakery. It took about a year of consistent attendance to get a smile, and nearly two to get a cheery wave and “bonjour,” but by the end of our stay, we were even invited to an open wine cellar event at the owner’s other family business. The boulangerie has almond croissants that I dream about, although some family members prefer the vanilla. I stopped by to say “au revoir” on our last morning (and buy croissants, of course), and came away with a bag full of pastries and a loaf of bread, which I am currently in the process of smuggling through U.S. Customs.




6. The Coop. I never figured out if this grocery store’s name was pronounced like a chicken coop, a homeschool co-op, or what one does when things get rough. Whatever, the case, its chocolate, bread, yogurt, and produce are worth the price. Coop also has a restaurant, which is where I would meet Madame for our French coffee and chats. I wish I could say that I always looked forward to these tĂȘte-a-tĂȘtes. I certainly should have, since Madame is one of the world’s most sweet and charming ladies and since it was an unparalleled opportunity to practice French. The whole experience usually paralyzed me with fear. But for a basically shy 42-year-old, the opportunity to do something scary is probably just as valuable as the French practice. And when I said goodbye to Madame and saw the tears in her kindly brown eyes, I could barely remember the stomach ache I got before every phone call and meeting. 




7. The patio was ideal for parties, morning devotions, and an evening glass of wine. The kids played board games there with friends, and it became my office while the house was full of movers. As the only place in the house with chairs during our final two weeks, it was our de facto living and dining room, too.

Two years ago, the thought of moving to Geneva filled me with the anticipation of adventure. I imagined travel, mountain hiking, skiing, and learning a new language. We did all of those things, and all of those things were wonderful. Life in Geneva, though, ended up being like life everywhere -- a matter of the daily things: a place to sit and look at the quince tree, a grocery store with reliable raspberries, a favorite walk, coffee with a friend. 

Some other pictures:



A favorite view: Mont Blanc from the shore of Lake Geneva.

Another favorite view: Coming into our neighborhood.
The lengthy orthodontist appointment was worth it!

Monday, July 22, 2013

BIG

     
America's BIG highways, flanked by some lovely BIG trees.
Madame Guenat, whom I have mentioned before as my elderly Swiss friend, frequently makes the comment, "America is a big country" (only she says it in French so it's much prettier). She has never been to America, but what she usually means is that she understands that something bad that happens in one area (like the movie-theater shootings in Colorado, for example), doesn't necessarily reflect the tenor of the whole country. I always find this a very kind thing for her to say to me. "Big" of course, is a relative term. When I showed Madame a map of the U.S. and explained that we would be living in Maryland while my parents were in Indiana, her initial thought was that we could probably drive from one location to the other in a few hours. She was shocked when I told her that it would take ten -- and more shocked when I told her that if we wanted to drive from Baltimore to visit my sister, who lives in Utah, we would be on the road for more than 30 hours (if we didn't stop). Big indeed.
       America's bigness (distances, people, portions, buildings) is something that Europeans sometimes disparage. At times I have been tempted to agree: It all seems so unnecessary. But after last week in the U.S., I have decided that big is not always bad. Take, for example, the trunk in our rental car (which was only midsize). We could fit our three suitcases and one backpack with plenty of room to spare, leaving the seats free for their intended cargo -- the people. I was also enchanted by all the enormous trees lining the highways. We didn't see buildings or billboards as we drove from D.C. to Baltimore, just piles of lush green.

Trees along the highway.

        Then there were the malls. Say what you want about consumerism, but on a sweltering day, there's no place like a freezing mall for a walk (yes, I am becoming an old person). And all the predictable stores are -- predictably -- in one place, requiring no venturing into killer humidity.

The smaller of two malls that we visited.

       I am not a universal fan of big, of course. Big roads are hard to cross on foot, particularly when big lines of big cars are barreling along them. Big portions in restaurants seem at first like good value, but we found ourselves unable to finish anything we ordered (we need to get smarter about sharing, clearly). Also, it's hard to suggest getting an ice-cream cone when you haven't finished your dinner. Especially when you're the mom. So big, for me, is a mixed bag. One thing I love about American Big, though: Big Coffee Mugs.

A sculpture on the harbor in Baltimore. It's not particularly American, I guess, but it's BIG. And I like it.


Friday, July 19, 2013

My Morning of International Crime

       Switzerland does not use checks. To pay for something in Switzerland, one usually uses cash or a credit card. To pay for something big (braces for your teenaged daughter, for example), one does a wire transfer. It took us a bit to adjust to this system of payment. It seemed strange and a little insecure to just  punch in a few numbers on the computer or fill out a form at the post office. It was hard to believe that the money was going to actually end up where it needed to be when there was no physical evidence of its travel. Over the past two years, however, wire transfers and cash have become a way of life, and no checks = no problem. No problem until we returned to the the U.S. this week, where, interestingly enough, they do use checks. In the United States, they use checks for all kinds of things: paying enrollment fees at homeschool co-ops, remunerating people who inspect the chimney, and, of course, providing earnest money when one makes an offer on a house.
       We had two main purposes in this trip -- first, we wanted to look at schools, and second, we wanted to find a house. We had about four days to accomplish both, so my formidable organizational powers were at full throttle. We searched online, drove through neighborhoods, talked to a Realtor, toured schools, examined roofs, boilers, bedrooms, and kitchens, found a house. We were clicking along like the well-oiled moving machine that we are, until I read through the 50 pages of contract required to make an offer on a house and got to the part where it said something like: "The buyer will provide earnest money in the form of a check for $5000 . . . ." A check. The machine's gears slowed a bit -- having been thoroughly Swissified over the past two years, we hadn't even thought to bring the check book on this trip. I wasn't  a hundred percent sure that the check book wasn't packed with the pots and pans on a freighter on its own little voyage to America. No problem. I am flexible. We'd go to the bank for a cashier's check. That seemed like a super idea until I searched for the nearest Fifth Third Branch. It's in Pennsylvania. So, okay, we'll get cash. Nope -- the real estate company couldn't take cash. Weird, because cash is, after all, money, right? But okay, we'll do a wire transfer. Sorry, that's cash, too (even if it's invisible and electronic). So I decided we would get a money order. Having no idea how to purchase a money order (and only a vague notion of what a money order actually is), I did what all good researchers do and googled it. I learned that one can purchase money orders at the post office with a debit card.
       The next morning, I dropped Eric off at the P&G office in Hunt Valley and headed to the Cockeysville Post Office. I had both of our passports, both drivers licenses, our Swiss debit card, and Eric's American debit card (mine had expired). I was prepared for anything. I figured I'd quick pick up the money order, go get a haircut, have a nice lunch, and then meet the Realtor at the house. I am efficient.  I am Getting It Done. The post office was not crowded, and I told the nice lady behind the desk that I wanted a money order for $5000. No problem, except that post office money orders only come in amounts of up to $1000, so I'd have to buy five. Fine. Can I pay with my debit card? No problem, except that sometimes debit cards have a limit. Did I know if mine did? No idea, as 1) I hadn't used it in over a year, and 2) $100 is a large withdrawal for me. Also, I would have to fill out special identification information to go on record as having purchased more than $2000 worth of money orders in one day. Because I was going to use Eric's debit card, I needed to provide his information. Good thing I have his social security number, telephone, birthdate, and shoe size all filed away in the old noggin. I smugly told the lady that I had his passport, too, if she wanted it. Everything was fine until I swiped the card, which was promptly denied. The clerk said we were probably over the limit, so we cautiously tried several amounts, with larger ones being denied, until we succeeded in paying for $3000 worth of money orders. I then decided we'd try the Swiss card, which didn't work at all.  The next step, the clerk explained, was to call the bank to have them increase the limit.
        Waiting on hold with Fifth Third to ask them to increase my credit limit so I could buy more money orders, I started to feel a little conspicuous. I offered a brief prayer of thanks that the post office was (still) not crowded, and a more fervent prayer that someone would answer the phone. I typed in Eric's social security number, his debit card number, the PIN code from his card, then an actual person answered and asked for my social security number, which, naturally, I couldn't remember after all those other numbers. It was at this point that I started to feel, just a bit, like some pawn in an international money-laundering scheme. I did finally remember my own identifying information and, in quite a bit more time than in takes to write this, our debit limit was raised. Victory!
        Defeat. I swiped the card repeatedly with no result. The clerk patiently voided out the rest of my order while I scuttled off to a corner to re-call Fifth Third. After again proving who I was by answering multiple questions which would have been easy for someone with an actual address and telephone number but were challenging for the temporarily homeless, I learned that I had increased the limit on my debit card, not Eric's. This was great news, except that my debit card, as the attentive reader will well remember, had expired. Not only could I not increase the limit on Eric's card (though we share an account!), but my repeated efforts to use it had alerted the Fraud Department, and now his card was entirely blocked. Could they talk to my husband? Well, no. I am calling you on his cell phone, since mine doesn't work in this country. He is in the bowels of P&G, inaccessible to a badge-less civilian. Nonetheless, unless I could reach him, the machine was at a standstill.
       I told the nice postal clerk I'd be back (which I'm sure warmed her heart), and headed to P&G. I didn't use the GPS because I am a bloodhound with an unfailing sense of direction. After driving several times in a large and traffic-filled circle, I turned on the GPS and found P&G. I explained to the receptionist/guard dog that I needed my husband, and he had no phone, and could she call someone back there and have them find him? She reached someone on the third try. Eric only had to provide his blood type, mother's maiden name, amount of his last deposit, and the name of the queen's firstborn son in order to have the fraud alert removed from his card. He explained why his wife had made all those bizarre attempts on his card, and assured the bank that indeed, I was his wife and not the kingpin of crime. Then he called another number to have the credit limit raised. Then I returned to the post office, which turned out to be about 200 feet from P&G. So much for the bloodhound.
       "Next," said the lady at the post office counter with a smile. Then, "Oh, it's you." But this time, the transaction proceeded hitch-free, and I walked out of the building with an envelope full of money orders. I can't explain why I still felt, just a bit, like I had pulled off something shady.
       I should be able to draw a lesson from all this, but I can't quite figure out what it might be. Take your checkbook with you, stupid? That seems a little specific. People are usually pretty nice and patient, even if you are behaving in a bizarre and suspicious manner? I'm not sure that's a helpful moral. Maybe my lesson this this: Switzerland isn't the only country where it's difficult to get around if you don't know (or remember) the rules.